A very good friend of mine recently accepted a position as CMO with Jackson Family Wines in Sonoma.  Of course, my first thought was - huh, not me?  As most of you know, Patty loves her wine and food!  What a natural position for me - yes?  Of course, Stephen actually worked to get the job - I just keep dreaming something like this will drop into my lap.  Sigh.  Maybe I should try a different approach.

Anyway - the point of all this is that my friend took off for France and needed someone to watch the house and dogs.  Ten days in Sonoma in a stunning 4,000 square foot house nestled in the vineyards of Matanzas Creek, complete with a beautiful pool, lily pond, a tasting room where everybody knows my name and lavender gardens that scent the air.  Yes, I scored!!!!

Lately, there has been a thought in my head that maybe I should look to transfer my marketing skills into another area that I enjoy - OK, love.  Thanks to a whiny conversation with Margaret where I was lamenting that I did not have a passion like so many other people, she laughed hard and said, “What the hell?  Of course you do!!!!  It’s called wine!”  Duh.  This is why everybody needs a fiery red head in their life.  So, the thinking started.

What a great coincidence (?) that Stephen ended up in the wine business.  I have no clue whether this is where I belong professionally or whether being a passionate consumer  is my destiny.  As always, it’s the journey, not the destination.

So, here I am in gorgeous Sonoma/Napa for 10 days.  The experiment begins and it starts a little rough.  Due to the dead economy, like many people, I have a lot of time on my hands and boredom comes with that small detail.  Ask a few of my friends, I constantly call them to say, “entertain me please!”  The drive up was great (singing John Denver all the way up the 5) but, when I arrived all the time on my hands and boredom came with me.

I was struggling with motivation and focus to begin with - why I thought being here would change that is a mystery.  All the books I’ve been meaning to catch upon  stayed in the car.  The text books to study for the second level of my Sommelier course remained closed.  My first couple of days I spent a lot of time walking up and down the vines trying to think my way out of the situation.  Stephen was right, it can be very meditative - or maybe I was just using it as another distraction.  Whatever!

True to form, I did not sit around and twiddle my thumbs the whole time - for godsakes, I was in the Provence of the US.  Great restaurants and wine are the backbone of the area.  I gave up the thinking/meditation and was off and running.

Thursday night I popped up to charming Healdsburg and wandered the square reminiscing about what childhood used to be like.  Small towns where parks were the central part of life, where people strolled without fear, where kids played until their moms could be heard calling.  A small book shop, ice cream parlor, boutique clothing shops and tasting rooms every other storefront.  Things were rather quiet which is unusual for this time of year (again, the economy).  I decided to try Dry Creek Kitchen for a light supper - it’s located on the main square and had an interesting menu.  It’s a Charlie Palmer restaurant and has a more modern, clean flair as opposed to most of the smaller, homey places you find in town.

Tory took care of me and I thoroughly enjoyed our conversation as he too had passed the first level of the Master Sommelier program.  With that connection established, he poured me a variety of tastes as I sampled the menu.  Only one other person joined me at the bar - Anthony, a retired, very fit 60 something who lived just off the square and divided his time between the various eating establishments.  Everybody knows his name!

The chopped Spinach Salad with Black Truffle Vinaigrette and a perfectly runny poached egg - yummy!  Truly phenomenal.  I should have stopped there.  I debated between the Truffle Stuffed Chicken Breast or the Corriander Duck.  I chose the Duck and I have to say it was just OK.   Can’t say I loved this restaurant but I’d be willing to give it another chance.

Friday, I did a very stupid thing and thought a drive over to Yountville (Napa side of the valley) would be a good thing.  From Santa Rosa it’s incredibly windy mountain roads for 21 miles.  Oy!  I kept thinking to myself that I should turn around but after washing and drying my hair I was determined to take it out.  I persevered and found myself on the one road of Yountville.  Everything that is Yountville is on that one road - The General Store, French Laundry, Bouchon, Bistro Jeanty, Bottega. I’ll make it short.  I’ve been to Bouchon in Yountville and Las Vegas a number of times - it has always been a lovely experience.   I debated whether to do it again and my gut was right - I should have been more adventurous.   I think Bouchon has been around too long and doesn’t feel the need to go the extra mile.  It was a disappointing evening with a staff that was less than interested in their guests and food that was lacking inspiration.  It will be my last time there.  The only highlight was a lovely, chatty couple from Napa who came in to Bouchon for an after dinner drink.  All they did was rave about Bottega.  Like I said, I should have been more adventurous. Note to self:  Bottega.

Anyway, you can only spend so much time eating and drinking so I quickly got down to Patty business.  I had a few phone numbers with friends of friends connections.  By Sunday, life in Sonoma flipped around.

Caroline and her husband moved up to Sonoma about 9 months earlier - coincidentally, she also works for the Jackson Family as head of PR.  Caroline popped over on Sunday for an hour to walk through the vines and we connected immediately.  Two successful, ambitous women trying to sort out what’s next and how to do it on our terms.

Caroline was off to watch the Lakers game and I jumped in my car to go to the town of Sonoma.  Like Healdsburg - charming, safe, quaint, lots of wine.  I had dinner at The Girl and The Fig.  It’s a small French Country Bistro with a lively crowd and a great wine selection.  I started with an Albarino as the evening was quite hot and savored a simple Butter Lettuce Salad.  I moved to a tasty Grenache and orderd the mussels.  That’s not the best match in food but I enjoyed both so much that it worked for me.

Caroline had arranged a wine tasting at the Murphy Goode tasting room in Healdsburg.  I arrived at 10:30am as instructed to find that the tasting had been moved to 3:30pm.  But, Murphy Goode’s wine maker, Dave Ready, was there doing a story for the local Fox News.  I became a “taster” in the story - it’s such a hard life I lead.  Dave and I had a nice time talking so when Caroline arrived for lunch Dave joined us.

It was interesting to talk to someone who makes wine and hear his story.  His father  was one of the founders of the winery and so Dave has lived the wine life from day one.  He loves what he does and I see him loving his growing fame as a wine maker - news stories, internet buzz, webisodes - it’s a changing industry where the consumer has more access to wineries and the wine makers due to the internet. Dave is becoming a bit of a celeb and I love how he talks about wine - like a real person and not a wine snob.  We ate at Headlsburg Charcuterie and Cafe. All the food looked fantastic and the place was packed with locals.  Unbelieveable gourment burger!  They insisted I order it and I’m glad that I did.  If you are in Healdsburg - this would be a great restaurant to put on your list.

Dave and Caroline took me to the Kendall Jackson wine tasting room and I enjoyed hearing Dave talk about the wines that we tried.  It just comes down to “what you like”  it’s like art and everyone has different tastes.  I am partial to big reds so we tried a few of the Cabs and Zins - all quite good.  It’s a beautiful tasting room and the folks there really know their stuff.

The highlight of my trip came on Wednesday and it was completely unexpected.  Caroline had set up a wine and food pairing at the Kendall Jackson Wine Center.  As most of you know - I like my wine - but it needs to be GOOD wine.  Which means that I don’t buy my wine at a supermarket and when I think of Kendall Jackson, I think supermarket wines.  Now, I know that every wine maker has good stuff but I think of that as reserved for family, friends, events, etc.

I arrived at the Wine Center and marveled at the beauty of the place.  Most centers are gorgeous - they begin with  long drives through the vineyards that bring you up to the doors of a country estate  - some French, some Italian, some California rustic -  lovely gardens and terraces, large trees for shade and picnics - it’s just as much fun to see the various estates as it is to try the wine.  KJ Wine Center was no different.

The tasting room was enormous - essentially, it was one huge foyer with a curving staircase off to the left and a long bar to the right with a number of friendly people pouring wine.  It was quite busy when I arrived so I stopped for a moment to take it all in.  Of course, there are the obligatory accessories displayed - wine openers, cheese knives, cook books - I’d love to see the numbers on how much wine vs. accessories are sold.

“Are you Patricia?” said a smiling chef.

“Yes, was it obvious?”

“I’m Justin.  We’re all ready for you.  Let’s get you settled in the gazebo and start your tasting.”

I was whisked outside by Caitlin who carried 5 empty glasses on a tray.  The gardens and the view are just lovely and I had the gazebo to myself.  I love five start treatment!  The five glasses were neatly arranged and a list of the wines and the food that would be served was presented.   Justin and Caitlin chatted with me for a bit beofre Justin disappeared to the kitchen.

Moments later he re-appeared with a dish and 5 light bites to match with each wine.  The food was AMAZING!  But, surprisingly, the wine was AMAZING.  This is no supermarket wine.  These wines are serious and outstanding.  I’m sure it’s perfectly fine to just eat a part of the little appetizers and only a sip or two of the wine - but, I wasn’t letting anything go to waste!  This was an unbelievable experience.

Matt, another chef at the Wine Center joined us and the three of talked about where we were from (Justin is a southern boy - Matt, East Coast) and our interest/passion for wine and food.  I need to be dating a chef!!!!!!

Matt and Justin wanted me to try the dessert tasting so more glasses were brought in and another tray of small bites.  Oh, dear.  I’m supposed to be going out to dinner tonight!  The wines were more sweet and luscious to match the sugar delights I was inhaling.  As always, my favorite was the chocolate with some rich port.

Yes, the people were lovely and clearly the chefs are wonderfully talented.  Yes, the place was gorgeous and the service spectacular.  But, I still can’t believe the wines.  I bought three cases before departing.  So much for that unemployment check!  The wines I tasted are:

Seco Highlands Chardonnay

Grand Reserve Chardonnay

Seco Highlands Pinot Noir

Taylor Peak Merlot

Trace Ridge Cabernet

Please, please, please try these wine - I truly think you will love them!

I met up with Caroline and some friends later that night so that we could attend a wine tasting at a local shop - the feature was Spanish Wines that had all received at least 91 points from Robert Parker.  It was a fun hour of trying some new wines and we all walked with a few Rioja’s under our arms.  Linda had lived in the area for about 10 years and knew all the ins and out so she suggested a charming place to eat dinner around the corner.

Estate is an old house  down the street from the Main Square.  Beautiful Gardens, a stunning patio with roaring fireplace and charming rooms throughout the house where amazing food is served with terrific service.  On Wednesday nights they have Pizza and Pinot for $ 10.  A great deal, great food and great environment.

Thursday was to be my last night and I wanted to try a little restaurant I had seen on the square in Healdsburg.  So, I ran back up to Healdsburg one last time and sat at the bar at Scopa.  Charming and quite popular.  Rustic Italian, there were plates of meatballs and pasta rushing by and gorgeous looking pizzas beind delivered to many tables.  I stuck with small bites as my jeans would no longer cooperate with my growing belly.  The griled Peaches with Salad - so yummy.  And the grilled Octopus was perfectly cooked - just melting in my mouth.  I can’t wait to go back and try even more dishes.

So, that was my trip.  Im still not sure where I stand with the idea of moving here.  I am just trying to take it all in.   I love the romance of wine and the lifestyle attached to it which is why I’m not sure I want to know the underbelly of the industry!  Will it dimish my appreciation?  Take away something that is about pleasure?  I dont know the answer but will keep you all posted!

In my many years of travel, I’ve had the pleasure of traveling with friends and family but I’ve also gone solo.  Like everything in life, both have their pros and cons.  I travel by myself for many reasons - I can’t get anyone to go with me, work has me in a country where it’s just a hop, skip and jump to another adventure, I want to challenge myself, I feel like being alone - whatever the reason is, the most important thing is that I don’t let traveling solo stop me from doing what I want to do.

The art of traveling solo - to me that’s a little heavy handed - there’s really not that much to it.  And challenging yourself to get out there can be the most rewarding experience ever.

Here are a few thoughts that I hope might set you on your own path:

Practice.  If you question your ability to travel by yourself start with small steps.  Most people are terrified by the idea of eating by themselves.  Get over it.  Everybody does it - or at least, the cool people do.  Pick a small restaurant in your area - one where you don’t know anyone - and book a table or belly up to the bar.  Plan on staying for just one drink or a small snack. Don’t over do it.

Bring a book, a magazine or even a small notebook to write in.  No one needs to know what you are writing!  Make your grocery list if it helps you feel comfortable.  If someone asks what you are writing - tell them you are a travel correspondent checking out the local scene!

Next time, go for a little longer.  Say hi to the people sitting next to you.  Always as the bartender/server their name.  It’s amazing how many new people you will meet and how many interesting conversations you can have when you are not glued to a friend.

Take a local organized tour - tell everyone you are visiting - they don’t need to know!

Go away for the weekend  - only 2 or 3 hours away.  Stay at a hotel and check out what they have to do in the area.  Give it a shot.  If you are really miserable, jump in the car and go home.

I have traveled all over the US, Canada, Europe, Central and South America, Central and Eastern Europe and Russia all by myself.  As I blogged about in Planning and Having a Good Trip, researching and planning goes along way when traveling by yourself.

I always stay in a nice hotel and ensure the area I am staying in is safe and well protected for tourists.  I’d rather scrimp on a few other things to ensure that I have a helpful staff, a protective attitude and a comfortable place to hang out in the event I don’t want to go out for the night.

Research cooking classes, historical tours, wine tastings, cultural exhibits, etc. - of course, only do what floats your boat.

Ask the concierge or front desk staff for recommendations on places to grab lunch, enjoy a cappuccino or sip a glass of wine.  Bring your reading/writing material and go!  Go, go, go!!!

A couple of things will inevitably happen:

You will meet other like minded travelers because they go to all the tourist and popular sights.  Often they take you under their wing!

You will enjoy the anonymity of being alone.

You will soak up the culture, lifestyle, feeling for the place.

You will feel empowered and pleased with yourself for getting out of your comfort zone.

You might be romanced by a local!

Safety is incredibly important and you need to be smart and aware but, not paranoid and fearful.  Know the city you are in and what the biggest issues are - pick-pocketing and armed robbery are two different things.

Don’t drink too much and lose control of your ability to make smart choices.

Leave your valuables at home - no one cares about your jewelry collection.

Divide money up in your purse/wallet/travel pack. I take out smaller increments from ATM machines  and leave a chunk of it in my room safe.

Don’t wander into non-populated areas - especially after dark.

I often walk or take public transportation in the daylight hours and taxi’s at night.

Don’t wear flashy, loud outfits that draw unwanted attention - unless you want that!

If you are worried about no one knowing your whereabouts, tell the hotel security or management that you are going out and when you will be back.

I go out with my drivers license in my wallet but I do not take my passport.  I keep that in the safe at the hotel.  My license provides identification and a passport fi more difficult to replace.

Always have a card from your hotel with the name. address and phone number printed on it.

Have the doorman of your hotel arrange taxis so that they ensure you will not be ripped off and you will be taken to the correct place.  When returning, flag the doorman if you have a problem.  NEVER let the taxi drop you off  “close” to your hotel.

I have never had a major problem while traveling.  I am determined to enjoy what the location has to offer but I am respectful of the environment that I find myself in.  Magical things happen to me when I travel alone.  People want to help and take care of you - it’s nice - let them!!!

I’m not saying that traveling by yourself is easy - as I said - there are pros and cons to everything.  Traveling with friends and family can lead to arguments, conflicting agendas or boredom of each others company.  Traveling solo can make you more conservative, it may not include late wild disco nights, it can have lonely moments - but, I would rather get out and SEE things and DO things than wonder, what if.

It’s all doable - just set the appropriate expectations and go with the right mind set about WHY you are doing this.  Know that no matter how you travel there are pros and cons - adjust your plan accordingly.

Most of all ENJOY!

Think Before You Book

What do you like to do?

It is not about what you “should” do or what you friends did when they were there, or what’s “important” - all that matters is what YOU like and want to do.

Confession:  I’ve been to Florence more times than I can remember.  I have never see The David.  I’ve never even put a foot in the Ufizi. There is a replica in the Piazza della Signoria.  I had lunch with a little too much wine and chatted with a bunch of futbol players who were on holiday.  Worked for me!  And when I travel - it’s about ME!

I appreciate museums and have visited The Egyptian Museum in Cairo, The V&A and National Portrait Gallery in London, Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam - you get the point.  But, I don’t feel compelled to see every museum.  It’s not always my thing.

What’s your thing?

Cooking?  Take a local cooking class.  Book cool restaurants all day.  Horseback riding?  Ask the concierge?  History?  Book a local guide.  Wine?  Well, drink!!!!!

My Strategy

When I am traveling, I always follow the Golden Rule that “less is more”.  I’ve picked a particular place to go see for some reason or another - biking/hiking, it’s beautiful, wine tasting, good club scene or just to experience it.  Focus on the main point of why you are going.

Research.  Don’t show up knowing nothing.  Spend some time getting a little background on what you are interested in.  Don’t travel thousands of miles to find out that a site you have been dying to see is closed for renovations.  There are so many sources there is no excuse not to have current information.

Make a list of what you would like to do - include everything from sleeping in to hiking for two hours everyday, dancing ’til dawn and sleeping in, seeing the sunset over the Coliseum, the Top 10 sites of the city, eat at a Michelin Start restaurant, sit in a cafe and get drunk with your best friend and flirt with local boys/girls.  Put it on a list and prioritize it.  If you get through 60 - 70% of the list that’s a huge success!  Unless you have unlimited time there’s probably something that won’t work out.  Get over it before you have to deal with it.  If you manage everything on your list consider it a bonus.

Break things down by sections of the city or area.  Research times that the things you want to do are open/available.  You don’t run from one end of town to the other to do your personal errands - don’t do it on vacation either!

I usually start my day a little early (usually by 9am) and get my number one thing for the day done first when I am fresh and before the crowds on buses arrive.  Ugh!  My biggest nightmare.  I’d rather get someplace early and be the first person in than get bumped around by hordes of people.

Tours can be great and I urge people to seek them out - just do your research!  If there is something I really want to see or learn about I spend a little money and arrange a  private or semi-private tour.   As I am spending so much money to travel I don’t always want to be on someone else’s schedule.  I also tend to ask a lot of questions so the guide is always busy with me!!!

If you are trying to save money search for a guide on the internet and use your “friends network” to get recommendations.  I saved a ton of money by reaching out to friends who turned me onto friends who turned me on to their friends, who then  turned me on to three different guides.  I don’t even know the people whose recommendation I finally went with for the tour but I got a great price and a terrific guide!

As I said, I usually run around all morning and then find a cute place for lunch (around 1pm or 1:30pm) and I hang out for two hours and enjoy the meal (and some wine).  Relax!!!  You are on vacation.  Sitting still is part of the fun.

Then in the afternoon (3pm – 5pm) I wander a neighborhood looking at the shops, visit a beautiful fountain, have a cappuccino or gelato, stroll through a garden or a museum  – in general I soak up the culture.

Around 5pm, I head back to the hotel and take a nap.  Yes, a nap.  Everyday.  It’s the key to a successful trip and should not be dissed.  As I said before, in other countries most people do not go out for dinner until at least 8pm!  Enjoy a nice snooze, soak your feet, take a fresh shower and then stroll out for the evening rested and content.

Patience is the second key.  That’s why I say “less is more”.  Invariably something will not go right or you will just be too tired to do another thing.  Don’t push it.

On night while in a small village in Tuscany, I was just to tired and worn out to go out.  I stayed in and read a book in the sitting room sipping a lovely Brunello de Montelcino.  That night I received an impromptu concert by a world famous violinist who was also staying at this 15th century Palazzo and was friends of the owners.  Unique travel experiences often come from the unexpected.

Bottom Line

You can design your vacation around anything you like to do - match up scuba diving with cooking classes, go bike riding from vineyard to vineyard, volunteer to work on an archeolgical dig, see historical sights and learn about the history and cultre, check out the local music scene, stroll the beaches - whatever floats your boat!

One last note:  If you are traveling outside the country keep in mind you are traveling there because you want to experience the culture.  Don’t expect or require that things will be the same as you know them at home.  Be sure to respect and appreciate what is different in the country you are visiting.  I mean, why else would you spend all the time and money to go someplace different and not enjoy the experience.

Be patient, take time to soak it all in and be an ambassador for your own country.  Most of all enjoy!

The Travel Cat is a collection of my experiences, advice, recommendations and crazy stories from the road.  I hope this site  gives you the courage and curiosity to see more of what this wonderful world has to offer.

London

Paris

Provence

Istanbul

Venice

Verona

Florence

What to expect?  What if I do the wrong thing?  How do I get around?  What if I need help and no one speaks English?  Below are a list of tips that I think work well for any place you maybe traveling outside your sphere.  If you have any tips - feel free to share!

Preparing for the Trip

•   Make sure your passport is up to date and that you have the proper visas.  Working through the post office to get your pasport is less expensive but it takes quite a bit longer.

•   Be sure to find out if you need a Visa for the country you are visiting.  Russia has a complicated process that involves confirmations from hotels, a lot of paperwork, etc. but Turkey has windows in the airport where you just hand them the money and they stamp your passport. Yes, ask your travel agent but I have been burned by this a number of times.  My best tip for making sure you have what you need is to call a professional Passport and Visa Procurement place.  Ask them what is required and what they charge do to the service.  You may decide the cost is worth it (it’s the only way I get my visas) but it it’s too expensive, at least you have the information.

•   Consider the culture you are about to spend time in:  i.e. Italy is  rather conservative and the Catholic Church is the dominant force whereas Rio de Janeiro has a very cosmopolitan, sexy lifestyle . You are in their country and they are not required (or interested) in conforming to your idea of what things should be.  Respect their way of doing things.

•   Check the weather!!  Seriously - it’s not hard and worth the 4 minutes it will take.

•   Sensible shoes are a must!  Cobblestones and long walking days are not your friend in sexy high heeled boots.  Outside the US wearing “sneakers” is a tad gauche (their also not fond of Bart Simpson t-shirts).  Do what you want in order to be comfortable but know you will stick out like an “American”.  I always wear canvas flats, sandals, leather flats, etc.

•   Plan for layers according to the weather – that’s always the rule of thumb no matter what climate you are traveling in.

•   Ladies - Always bring a light wrap or scarf.  Great for a plane blanket, dressing up an outfit, when the weather gets cool or covering your head for chapels, religious sites, etc.  Tie them around your purse/bag when not wearing them. (It can make it harder for pick pockets).

•   A camera is a must and don’t be shy about taking pictures.  Everybody does it!  Tourism is most nations biggest money maker - they WANT you there - taking pictures and all.  Of course, don’t be rude.  Would you want a foreigner sticking a camera in the nose of your Grandma because she looks so “cute”?

•   Pack light.  Turn clothes in for laundry if they are getting dirty/worn.  It’s no fun dragging a crazy heavy suitcase around and besides if you like to shop you’ll need room for goodies.  Sometimes I’ve been so bad that I had to buy a second suitcase!

•   If you have prescriptions, you might want to get a note from your doctor - especially if they require syringes.  I’ve traveled with prescriptions before and have never had a problem.  For the “less traveled destinations” - i.e, Burma - it’s probably a good idea.

Money/Exchange Rate/Credit Cards

Exchange rates change all the time.  Plan on them being different from the day you book to the day you travel.  Be sure to think ahead on how this will effect you.
•    I usually only bring about $ 50 - $100 of converted money for the country I am traveling to and then exchange it when I arrive.
•    I  use my ATM card a lot as I can then take money out as I need it.  However, be aware of exchange charges and fees with your bank.  It’s always good to call ahead and be informed.
•    I’ve always been told that you get the best exchange rate on credit cards due to the amount of international money that a credit card company handles.  For me, it’s just a practical issue.  Using a credit card, I carry less cash and if there is a problem, I can complain to my credit card.
•    American Express is not as widely accepted outside the United States.  Major hotels and international restaurants accept it but you will find smaller place often do not.  Always have a Mastercard or Visa as a back up.
•    If you don’t want to use an ATM when exchanging money, find a small place near your hotel (the doorman or concierge will know where a good one is).  DO NOT exchange money at the hotel – it’s really expensive.

Plane Trip Over and Back
•   Many countries require landing cards (the US does) so be prepared to provide basic information - name, address, passport number, where you are staying, the length of your stay and why you are traveling.  Don’t say you are traveling for work, to look for a job, to open a business, etc. unless you really are there for tht purposes and have the proper documentation to support it.  If you mark that box that’s the fastest way to get bounced from the country!  Just like the States, it is illegal for foreigners to work without the proper papers.  The flight attendants will know what is required for landing cards, etc. and they generally have the forms on boards for you to complete on the plane.  If you are confused - ask someone around you.  Travelers love to help travelers.

•   If you are on a connecting flight to another country, (England to Bejing) there will  be signage upon deplaning for “Connecting/Transferring Passengers”.  You will not clear customs until you arrive at your destination.

•   If you have a connecting flight within the country (or a fellow EU country)  you will most likely clear customs in the first city and then connect to a “local” flight.

•   Have your passport and Landing Card ready.  Follow everyone else off the plane and get in line!  There will be lines for  Nationals and “Other Passports”.  You will be “Other”.  Signage will most often be available in English.

•   Make sure you go to the bathroom before the plane starts to descend.  I’ve been caught in really long passport/customs lines and there generally no restrooms!!

•   When you return to the States it’s the same process.  They will definitely give you a Customs Form to be filled out.  Currently, US residents get $ 800 of purchases duty free.  If you are a few dollars over, don’t panic -  they are mostly looking for expensive jewelry, art, cheese, meat, etc.

•   When traveling long distances that move you across many timelines, your best bet is to get on local time as quickly as possible.  Whatever time you arrive (morning, afternoon or night) do the activity that matches that time.  That might mean going right to bed.  Don’t take a nap!!!!  It will mess withyour clock even more than it has.   Goto bed as close to your normal time as possible.  Don’t mess with your system  you will get through jet lag sooner.

Tipping
This always confuses people – and trust me, I still get confused!
•    The general rule of thumb is 10%.  You can leave 15% if it was an extra special meal or service.
•    Credit Cards do not have a gratuity line.  You either have to tell them to include it in the total when you ask for the bill or you can leave it in cash when you sign for the bill.  I often leave it on the table if I linger after the bill has been taken care of.
•    If you are having drinks or coffee in a café, leaving a few  coins is fine.
•    If you are doing “take away” you don’t need to tip – but, there is not a whole lot of take away!!!!

Dining

•    Meals are generally long and relaxed in other countries.  Only the US has a Drive Thru culture.  Lunch is generally a serious matter with many businesses closing down.
•    Light drinks:  generally all soft drinks, iced drinks, etc are made with different ingredients than the US and will taste differently.  For instance, lemonade is not the same as ours – it’s like a lemon bitter tonic and I have never seen iced tea served outside of an international hotel when traveling!
•    Other than London,  I have never been asked to give up a table for another dining party.  Generally, once you have been seated, the table is YOURS for the day or night.  There is always exceptions if you are eating at a tragically hip place but I’m sure they will inform you ahead of time.
•    They will not bring the bill until you ASK for it.  They think it is rude to give you the bill before you request it as that would be the same as asking you to leave.  You can make the international symbol of “signing on your hand” if you don’t know the words.  If all else fails, flash a credit card.  That always says, “I’m ready to pay”!
•    Dinner in other many countries does not start until after 8pm.   (see my notes about napping)

The most important thing to keep in mind is that most people are generally kind and want to help.  Don’t be afraid to ask and don’t get upset if someone is unable to help.  Not everyone speaks English and I have found that many are embarrassed that they cannot speak English and so shy away.  I spent 25 minutes one day lost in Istanbul looking for a museum.  As I wandered I kept asking people if they spoke English.  I had very little luck.  Finally, one guy waiting for a bus made motions to indicate “wait”.  He made a call on his cell.  His friend spoke English and translated what I was looking for.  The guy hung up the phone and then escorted me to the front door of the museum - missing his bus.  This stuff happens all the time!

Please see my other blog entry about planning your day, the importance of patience and the art of taking a nap.

I’d love to say hello in Russian but I sure don’t know the alphabet and after 5 days, I still can’t figure out how to say it!  I was so excited to finally make it to this city as it has been on my list of “must do’s” for ages.   My first impression was as I expected.  An aging airport with a less then technologically inspired passport control system.  What line to get into was a crap shoot.  As I flew in from Istanbul I was with a smattering of nationalities and every fifth person seemed to be questioned and scrutinized for ages.  After playing musical lines for over 30 minutes I passed through a very thorough passport check where the Russian officer asked me 4 times if I was Patricia.  I’m not sure my haggard traveling look matched my exuberant smiling passport photo.

I was told my driver would be waiting for me just outside of luggage.  I looked through all the hand held signs as I walked through passport control but there was no sign claiming me.  Standing alone with my luggage I was an immediate target for aggressive taxi drivers where I was besieged with offers to help.  This happens at a number of airports around the world so I am very good at saying no and ignoring their pleas but it makes me nervous when they put their hands on the handle of my luggage and start to pull.  There were so many drivers this time grabbing for me that I snapped out a slightly loud and very firm ”no” and they all backed off quickly.  However, this still left me without a car.

As solid 25 minutes had passed and just as I was beginning to worry about how to get to the hotel, my driver rushed in.  Easily 6’ 6”,  with a severe crew cut, a barrel chest that screamed weight lifter and a neck that melded into his head.  Somehow all 250 pounds of him knows I am Ms. LaVigne and he grabs my luggage with a few Russian words and a nod.  He turns and walks so fast that I am jogging to keep up with him.  I had hoped to go to the bathroom before heading out but that didn’t seem to be on the agenda.  My driver continued to walk so fast that me and my short legs just gave up trying to keep up with him.  I thought at some point he would notice I was lagging behind.  He did not.  I came around a corner and was lucky to catch a glimpse of him across the street and at the far side of the parking lot putting my things into the trunk.  I think he would have left without me!

The drive into the city took almost 90 minutes as there was a great deal of traffic (the airport is about 20 miles away).  We passed a variety of buildings that ranged from forlorn and falling down to mighty and important.  You could see the various eras right next to each other – the palaces of the Alexander and Nicholas, the might of the Stalin years and the drabness of Khrushchev.

After checking in I was anxious to get my first look at Red Square and the walls of

St. Basil's in Red Square

GUM Department Store

The Kremlin so off I ran as the day was sinking into night fast.  It’s breathtaking.  The beauty of St. Basil’s famous domes and the millions of lights lining the enormous GUM building (an old state department store now filled with capitalist LUXURY goods) made me feel like I was in a Disney inspired park.  An ice skating rink was set up in the middle of the square and hundreds of children were squealing their way around the loop.  A few snowflakes fell but not enough to create the winter wonderland I had hoped for.  It was balmy by Russian standards - 30 degrees Fahrenheit.  At this time of year they are generally battling minus 15 – 20 degrees.

After a long walk around Red Square and a quick hello to Lenin, I returned to the hotel to get a snack as I had not eaten yet that day.  The 10th floor of the Park Hyatt has a lovely view of The Kremlin and the various domes of the churches.  I thought a glass of champagne and some small toasts with olive and tomatoes sounded great and settled in to toast my arrival to this city.  At this point I had not really focused on the dollar/ruble exchange but decided to do some math so I would be able to calculate things quickly as I toured the city.  My first calculation was the glass of champagne I was drinking.  I had to do the math 6 times before I realized that yes, I was drinking a $ 60 glass of Moet Champagne!!!!!  I traveled here knowing that Moscow is currently the most expensive city in the world but a $60 glass of champagne shocked even me.   Continuing with my math, I figured out my little “snack” was $50. Oh, dear.  I contemplated this for a few more minutes and then thought what the hell – yes, I’ll have a second glass of champagne!  Here’s to Moscow.

I quickly devised a financial plan – my room included a free breakfast and they also delivered fresh fruit and cookies to the room every afternoon.  I’d eat a big breakfast and have the free fruit and cookies for lunch.  That would leave money for a decent dinner.   It worked well.

I would love to tell you that there were great Patty style adventures but Moscow was a rather reserved trip for me.  The language barrier outside the hotel made it quite challenging so I was really on my own figuring out streets, directions and what various building were all about.  I was lost and confused for most of the time but I saw many interesting neighborhoods and wandered by some beautiful churches, school buildings and parks.  I was not interested in spending my time indoors looking at a myriad of paintings – I preferred to get a feel for the city and its daily life.  The Fodor’s guide describes the city perfectly: it’s not a pretty city but there are many pretty sites to see.  The fairytale looking domes of all the churches, the imposing size of the buildings, the police presence everywhere you turned, the singular focus of people surviving in a big city, beggars in front of Prada, Christmas trees decorated in a variety of garish blinking lights and ornaments in every square, American Christmas Carols blaring from mall loud speakers, dozens and dozens of theaters and concert halls, the parade of fur coats and the non-stop cigarette smoke – I loved soaking it all in.  Charming is not a word I would use with this city – bustling, struggling, stoic, resigned, determined – it is what it is.

I did hire a guide on Friday to take me through The Kremlin and the famous Moscow museums.  Spectacular!  I don’t wear (or own) a lot of jewelry but I have a fascination with the sparking beauty and creations made with precious stones.  The Diamond Fund is jaw dropping – and it only ranks 3rd or 4th in the world for its collection.  Exquisite Crowns, dramatic necklaces, earrings so heavy you wear them with loops around your ears instead of through the lobes – to be royalty in the 18th and 19th centuries was a good thing!  The Armory continues with a stunning look at the opulence of the czars - dresses made with silver and crystal, carriages of glass, gold and gems, thrones of gold, Faberge eggs for gifts.  My guide Lydia was filled with non-stop stories of palace intrigues, coups, affairs and general back stabbing.  She really made it all come to life and I thoroughly enjoyed her interesting approach to a history lesson on Russia.

My friend Donna connected me with a colleague of hers from Sony and Maria was a godsend.  Maria is a sharp, beautiful 30 year old with a great sense of humor.  We went to dinner Thursday night at a restaurant called Mayak.  A mix of Russian and French cuisine, Mayak is a small bohemian style bar/restaurant over a theater down a small side street.  It’s over 150 years old and you can picture the writers and actors of years gone by smoking their cigarettes, drinking their vodka and discussing the state of affairs.  A mish-mash of tables housed an eclectic crowd of young students, Russian journalists (that Maria identified) and local actors.  We enjoyed a lovely bottle of Malbec and delicious duck covered in a wild berry sauce.  The small space quickly filled with a haze of smoke and as my eyes began to fill with water I was convinced I would leave Moscow with lung cancer.   Maria and I discussed many topics but the one that fascinated me most was the discussion about the stunning women of Moscow and the incredibly unattractive, overweight men they were with.

Maria laughed and said, “yes, it’s not like America - those are the men we have.”
“Are they really boyfriend-girlfriend or is there something else going on?”
“Yes, they are dating. But we don’t call them boyfriends – we call them sponsors!”

Maria delivers this all with a very matter of fact humor that illustrates how Russians size up a situation for what it is and deal with it.  We also spent Saturday morning together wandering Moscow’s famous flea market at Izmailovsky Park. I loved asking her questions about Russian life and marveled at the resilience of these people to take things in stride and work with the daily frustrations that are a part of getting anything accomplished here.

On Friday night, I enjoyed a lovely dinner at a restaurant called Pushkin.  The restaurant has a funny history:
In the 1970’s one of Moscow’s top chefs was walking in the city when a French couple stopped him and asked him where Café Pushkin was located.  The chef had never heard of a place with that name.  The French couple explained that one of their famous French pop singers had written a love song that told the story of his love for a Russian women and how they would drink hot chocolate in Pushkin Café.  The French couple wanted to do the same.  The chef laughed and said that the singer made up the place!  However, the chef realized a great opportunity and with Perestroika he found a three floor pharmacy and turned it into one of Moscow’s top restaurants!  It was a Russian gastronomic feast with a small mushroom pie, sauerkraut and veal soup and beef stroganoff.  The Russians love their creamy dishes.  It’s a good thing I had a 25 minute walk back to the hotel!

One of my favorite things to do in Russia is to ride the metro.  In the 30’s the metro was created to be a Palace for the People.  It is the same in St. Petersburg.  Each underground stop is designed with paintings, mosaics, crystal chandeliers and gorgeous tile work.  It’s fun to get on and off at various stops to see the different themes.

In the end I can’t say that I loved Moscow – I enjoyed seeing the sights, I had some nice meals, learned more about a different culture and made a new friend.  As I said, I don’t think of the city as “charming” and I certainly struggled my way through a number of situations.  I’ve become so used to the warmth and hospitality of the Turkish that the reserved and perfunctory demeanor of the Russians was a big adjustment.  I think Moscow is a city that takes time to unfold.  I found myself thinking it would be ideal to live here for 6 months and really experience the hidden treasures of this city.  I only scratched the surface so I hope to give it another shot in the near future.

Back to Istanbul for this girl.  Hope you are all well.

And yes, for two nights, I slept in a cave that is over 2,000 years old.  Of course, mine comes with Frette sheets and room service!

I’ve done just about everything there is to do in Istanbul and started to look for small trips inside the country.  As I had already been to Antalya, Efes, Izmir and Kusadasi – it was decided amongst the W Hotel staff that I should go to Cappadocia.  It’s a one hour flight and the idea of sleeping in a cave was intriguing, so this past weekend, I took off.

My first impression of Cappadocia was not a good one.  It started at the Istanbul airport.  There was a pretty good sized plane at the gate and only 15 passengers in line.  Clearly, not a hot spot with the locals.  Too late to back out now so I ran up the stairs with everyone else.  Now, in the States, with so few people on the plane it would be natural to assume you would have your own row of seats.  The Turks like to sit together.  They all pretty much sat in the first 3 rows – and even took the middle seats.  Fascinating.  I had my own row in 5.

The drive to the hotel wasn’t making me feel much better about my weekend travel choice as the view from the back seat seemed to really bring home the Fodor’s description of “lunar landscape”.  I was told it was 50 kilometers to the hotel and I threw a few quick prayers that this driver knew where he was going.  The meter was ticking at an awfully fast rate.  I was told to expect 100 Turkish Lire - which is only about $30 USD thanks to the economy crashing here!  See, there is some good news on the economic front.

As we came over a hill my jaw dropped.  OK, now we’re talking.  It looked like we

The Cappdocia Valley

had just arrived at The Grand Canyon but this one was all white.  The flowing river, the unusual rock formations and the sheer size.  I was beginning to get it.

A little background:

Cappadocia - Anatolia for historians - is in the center of Turkey, east of Istanbul.  The area was created by volcanoes and then over the years the volcanic ash was worn down from water, ice and wind to create canyons and massive rock formations.  The early inhabitants of this brutal climate dug into the soft volcanic rock creating caves in the cliffs where they lived and cities underground for storage and protection.  As we drove through the valley I could see the “neighborhoods” of condo high rises.  The lower floors were reached by rope ladders (that could be pulled up when the enemy arrived – or if you just didn’t want the nosy neighbor popping by) and once up in the cave, stairs connected the various floors. Ingenious – and quite cool.

We drove around another bend and I could see a village above us built into the cliff.  Getting up the steep roads was a slow process but I had come to the conclusion that my driver did seem to know where he was going and and as soon as we crested the hill the meter hit 100YTL and he stopped in front of a small gate.

I walked through the gate and down a small stone pathway that lead to large door and lots of smiling faces.

Entrance to The Museum Hotel

“Merhaba, I am Patricia LaVigne.  Do you speak English?”
“Yes, my name is Christine and I am from Minnesota.”

Seriously?  In Cappadocia?  I couldn’t contain myself.

“How the hell did you end up here?”
“Love”, said Christina.
“He must be one hot guy.” said, shallow me.
“No, I fell in in love with Cappadocia.”
“Huh.”

Alp and Çem – the concierge team at The W – had recommended The Museum Hotel. Both stayed here and knew the owner, Omer.  The hotel is the vision of this man who grew up in the area and knew the caves.  He bought a large section of a cliff and started to create a series of rooms connected by the tunnels.  A huge amount of excavation had to be done but Omer’s goal was to keep as much original cave as possible.  Omer is also a museum curator and a huge collector of ancient artifacts, nomadic carpets, and items from Turkey’s colorful past.  So, the hotel now has 30 rooms - each very different and beautifully decorated.  I am in what is called the

Lazy Hunters Suite

Lazy Hunter Suite.  A family used to live in the irregularly shaped 18’ x 16’ central room.  The main wall that faces the valley has small arrow holes for the archers who protected the clan.  Shooting from hundreds of feet up through a 4” hole insured a lot of protection.

A large divan sweeps one end of the cave with a small arched window above that has been roughly hewn out of the ash stone. It provides a spectacular view of the valley hundreds of feet below.  The modern bathroom (jacuzzi tub, et al) sits in what used to be a storage room for the family.  Odd doors and steps are negotiated at every step.

Terraces on every level provide stunning views of the sunrise and the sunset as it works it’s way across the valley floor and the cliff walls.  Louie Armstrong sings across the valley from loud speakers as guests cocktail by an open fire, under millions of stars, and next to a beautifully tiled pool.

My room was actually not ready to move in, so “Minnesota Christine” offered to show me around.  Jaw dropping.  What a vision.  Museum Hotel is like no other.  Someone’s home, meets 5 star hotel, meets archaeological wonder, meets the Smithsonian, meets trendy hot spot.  (As a side note:  this place is soooooo cool that a certain US Sports Mag selected it this year for it’s issue of scantily clad swimsuit models.  Can you guess?)

Christine introduced me to a guy who looked like a perfect cross between a wealthy Italian and Indiana Jones.  Light grey flannel slacks, a very light blue oxford shirt covered by a tan, grey and black tweed blazer, a fedora and the bushiest mustache this side of Einstein.

My Host - Omer

“I am Omar.”
“Hello.  I am Patricia.  The W…”
“Yes, Patricia, I know who you are.  Let’s get you settled and then we will talk.”

I settled into the Lazy Hunters Cave and quickly cleaned up as I had some Type A types of things planned for that very afternoon.  Wine tasting, a cooking lesson, maybe a sunset balloon ride, a quick jaunt into town, etc.  Instead, Omar was waiting for me with tea  on the terrace.  The terrace juts out over the edge of the cliff making you feel like you are in the canyon.   As I stared at the stark, white, stunning landscape, Omar and I chatted about the usual subjects - where I was from, what I was doing in Istanbul, etc.  Within minutes he invited me to join him and some friends for dinner that evening.  And then within minutes of that, I was asked to lunch.  He promised to have me back in time for wine tasting.  Why not?

Omer announced to the staff we would be leaving for lunch and he escorted me to a swanky Jaguar parked on the hill.  Off we went driving through the hills and canyons of caves.  We passed the famous town of Goreme past Fairy Castles and a few bars named “Flintstones Cave”.  We continued to wind down the hill and at a particular intersection Omer honked his horn and a van pulled out to follow us.  Within minutes we were in another small village with dogs sleeping in the streets, old men drinking Chai Tea and playing backgammon in the cafes.

I met Josie (Dutch), her husband Phillip (British) and Jeanne (from Buffalo).  They were far too polite to ask how I popped up on the scene between breakfast and lunch.  Josie and Phillip have lived in Ankara for 22 years (Phillip is in the oil/gas business) and they recently purchased some caves and were building a terraced house a few hundred yards from The Museum Hotel.  Jeanne’s husband flew F-16’s for an American contractor in Turkey and they all met years ago and had remained friends across the years and the miles.

We went to a local hole in the wall pita place.  It’s typical fare for Turkey – hot pita bread with a variety of toppings – pastrami and egg, chicken, minced lamb, cheese.  It was delicious.  Served in small slices we tried a variety of options with a light green salad.  No alcohol here.  Most of these small cafes are Muslim.  The meal went just fine with a Coca Cola.

After lunch, Josie and Phillip were off to pick up some antique doors and somehow it became an afternoon of all of us antiquing with no wine tasting in sight.  Being a museum curator, it was wonderful to have Omer look at the various pieces with me.  We all scoured through the store asking questions as we went along.

“No, that’s a fake.  And a bad one.”
“Yes, true Ottoman period.  Nice work on the filigree.”
“This one is rare.  Look at the markings.”

We all left the store with small treasures  - for me, a bracelet from the mid 1800’s, spoons from the late 1800’s and a coffee box with unique Palace markings.  All Ottoman era.

We merged right into the evening cocktails and dinner.  It was lovely to meet fellow

Poolside for Cocktails

world travelers and to hear recommendations for cities like Damascus, various places in Indonesia and even some small villages in Turkey.  Omer invited us back to his rooms in the hotel for a night cap.  He lives in The Sultan’s Room.  It lived up to its name.  Rich velvet drapes, a huge fireplace, a bathroom I would be happy to live in and a terrace with gorgeous hand painted tiles and a view of the valley.  A butler took care of all of us as we ordered after dinner drinks and settled into the pillows.  We had endless things to talk about but we finally bowed out around 2am.

The next morning we all met early for a 6 kilometer hike through White Valley.  Along the way we searched for mushrooms and amassed a rather large collection.  We ate grapes and quince growing wild along the path.  I had heard that Cappadocia was jokingly referred to as the land of the penises.  I was not quite sure where that came from until we reached the 5 kilometer mark and I had a huge laugh.  All the rock formations in a place called Love Valley are shaped like giant penises.  And

Love Valley

people made their homes in these tall cylindrical formations.  I could imagine conversations 2000 years ago:  “Stop by for coffee, I am in the penis on the left of the intersection.”  I did not have my camera that morning but I am awaiting the photos from Omer.  What a sight!

Late morning I met my guide Ali for a more detailed tour of the area and was amazed to hear that Cappadocia was primarily settled by Christians and were over 700 monasteries built in the caves.  The monasteries housed and fed those needing help.  In return, the needy worshipped and worked.  Beautiful frescoes, old altars, long serving tables remain in the cave churches.  Interesting stuff.

By the time I returned to the hotel I was wiped out.  Minnesota Christine is coincidentally the masseuse and she came over at the last minute to gave me a much needed massage.  After a hot bath and a little disco nap I was ready to start the evening.  Omer was waiting for me by the fire.  I was beginning to realize Omer was romancing me.   All the friends had departed for Ankara and it was just the two of us for dinner.  We dined on risotto made with the mushrooms we had picked that morning.

Omer is a fascinating man and easy to converse with on many subjects.  I assumed he was around 65 or 70 and his experiences seemed to confirm that assumption.  Omer was a generous host not allowing any of us to pay for food or wine and tonight’s dinner was no different.  Although there was a full staff at the restaurant his butler was at the ready to make sure he and I had anything we desired.  From our conversation, I understood that I was with a man of immense wealth who loves to travel, drink wine and enjoy friends.  He was a true old fashioned gentleman and I kept thinking “too bad he is so much older.”   When I learned he was 50, I almost choked.  50?  Could he be telling the truth?  Cappadocia must be a hard place to live.  Or maybe I was used to the Botoxed face of LA.

We were both quite tired and as Omer kissed my hand I thanked him for another lovely day and gratefully crawled into the sheets feeling a lovely breeze come up through the holes in the cave walls.

I woke at 6am the next day and caught the hot air balloons that take off every morning from the valley floor.  For an hour, dozens and dozens of colorful balloons

Hot Air Balloons Rising Over the Valley

rise up and float just feet from the edge of the terrace.  You can say hello to the people in the baskets.

Omer joined me for breakfast and then gave me a room to room tour of the hotel.  One room has a gold fish pond in the living room, one has taps to the wine cellar and you can pour all you want (I plan to book that room next), another is decorated so lavishly I could not imagine anyone ever leaving the room.  It was called The Harem.  Of course.

At 11am, I went to check out and learned that I was considered Omer’s guest and there would be no charges.  Further, Omer had arranged a private driver to take me to the airport.  It was sweet that Omer had romance in his heart but alas, this was not a love connection for me but I hope a friendship will continue.  There are many of us who travel the world meeting people along the way – Omer is man who waits for the world to come to him and he takes great care of his guests and friends.

It was a wonderful weekend.  I am now back in Istanbul for my final week and find myself curiously at home.

Hope all of you are well…

Yes, I arrived safe and sound.  And it’s been non-stop until this moment.  I am wrapped in my down comforter at the W Hotel and catching up with my LA life.  “Ellen” is playing on TV and keeping me company.  The shows are all from America on this channel and the promos in Turkish.  I can’t figure out when anything is on.

We arrived Saturday.  I say “we” as I am here working with a media group that is launching a new channel.  They want an American look and feel and so have hired the fabulous team of Troika for the project.  Dan, Kristen, Earl, Robert and I landed early evening Saturday and were anxious to get out and see a little of the city.

As many of you know, I spent a great deal of time here 10 years ago.  The travels I

The Mosque at Ortakoy

enjoy the most are the one’s that introduce me to a completely exotic and different culture.  I was fascinated with the mosques and palaces that ranged from 326 AD to the mid 1800’s.  Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman – the layers are rich here.  Sultans, harems, water palaces, ancient baths, the Muslim call to prayer broadcast over loud speakers 5 times a day from every mosque across the city, covered markets with mounds of spices, goat heads, sheep stomachs, roasting spits of meat, colorful pottery, fabrics, carpets, carpets and more carpets all with the the non-stop call from vendors to “help me spend my money” create a dizzying array for the senses.

All of this still remains, but the city has a whole new spirit and liveliness to it that was not evident before.  Ten years ago there were few hotels and slim pickings on the restaurants.  The city was struggling to recreate itself and was quite nice but quiet.  Now, it explodes with ritzy 5 star hotels, roof top terrace bars, international cuisine and trendy beautiful people who like to party until all hours.  Currently, the fundamentalists make up about 8 – 10% of the population.  I’m not sure if that is the same, or less however, when I was here last the population was about 7 million.  Now, the official population is 11 million and the unofficial is 15 million and many believe it is closer to 20 million.  They all live in the same city space that has been here for thousands of years.  The traffic here makes the 405 look like a speedway.

Saturday night, we had reservations at a fish restaurant on the Bosphorus called Feriye.  The Bosphorus is the seaway that connects the Black Sea and Sea of

Suspension Bridge Over The Bosphorus

Marmara.  The restaurant is right on the edge – it almost feels like lakeside dining – except for the fact that HUGE tankers, cruise ships and ferries glide by all night long - just yards from our table.  Above us is a beautifully lit suspension bridge that connects the European and Asian sides of Istanbul.  Under the bridge, a small mosque with delicate minarets is bathed in white light and glows beautifully against the dark night - the small area is called Ortakoy.  We don’t really know what anything on the menu says but the food on the other tables looks quite good.  The waiter speak English (sort of) and we just tell them to bring us yummy things.  Cheese with Yogurt, Octopus Salad, dough covered meat balls, Hummus, Sea bass and Chicken with Pistachios.  We did OK.  We even tried some Turkish wine.  Not bad.  Needless to say, this was a big concern of mine but rest assured I have found a few fab wines to get me through my time here.  My favorite is called Karma.  How funny is that?

Although tired from the long flights, we managed to keep going until midnight which made our 9am tour of the city a bit of a challenge.  The gang was very excited

The Blue Mosque

to see the sites and I was thrilled to re-visit them.  We had a terrific guide who understood that trying the local food was just as important as the history.  Kebaps in a local dive was perfect!  Develi is where the locals go. The entrance on the ground floor was a little scary with  dirty walls, dripping water and a small man sitting on a chair with his legs crossed smoking a cigarette and fondling his prayer beads.  The elevator was so small and rickety only two people at a time could ascend to the third floor.  When the door opened it revealed large bright room with white table cloths and waiters running madly about to the hundred or so people loudly talking, smoking and drinking the lunch hour away.  We told them to just bring one of everything and we relished sampling the variety of kebabs, fresh pita and vegetable dishes.

Sunday night we were pretty tired.  We wimped out and walked the 50 yards down the street to a little Italian place to have some pasta.  Our client who we had not met called and suggested she join us for a drink.  While we waited for Seda to arrive we played a game on what she would look like after speaking with her numerous times.

Robert:  In her 40’s, a little dumpy and “manish”.  Ouch!!!!!
Me:  Mid-30’s, thin, wealthy, fashionable and hot

The debate was funny.  We had such different interpretations from the same conversations.

I won.  Robert – 40 and single was happy to be wrong!

Seda is New Istanbul.  She is funny, smart and most importantly knows all the hot spots to go.  I am taking notes  Her energy convinced us to follow her through a small courtyard behind our hotel and into an office building.  At the top was a beautiful restaurant and bar called Vogue.  Again, beautiful views, beautiful people and a beautiful vibe.

Monday we spent the day in meetings – well, part of it.  We met Gorkem (General Manager), Ahmet (CFO), Bahadir (Art Director) and Cem (CEO).  All are under 40 and they love to have a good time.  We raced through the meetings to get to lunch.  Our hosts picked another fantastic place on the Bosphorus.  An old wooden restaurant that juts out over the water with huge windows that open to the breeze.   Numerous bottles of wine were poured as we devoured tomatoes with arugala and mint, grape leaves, pureed eggplant, calamari and more fresh fish.  Lunch was three hours!  It’s a good thing they are providing drivers!

After a few more meetings and a quick stop at our hotel to freshen up we arrived at a restaurant called Sunset.  Stunning.  Set up in the hills above Istanbul this place is beautifully designed, has an amazing wine cellar and a huge patio that looks more like an outdoor living room that hangs over the edge of the hill displaying the Bosphorus and the beautifully lit palaces that line the seaway.  Dinner was a repeat of lunch.  Non- stop wine and food.  There were 9 of us and I think the bill was easily $ 2,000.  And that wasn’t all.  Although it was Monday, they wanted us to see another hot spot so back into the cars and down the hill we went to the shores of the Bosphorus again where we went to a neighborhood bar that was mobbed with people.  Lucca is in the little town of Bebek which is the trendiest village of the city.  Of course, our hosts knew half the people there and we were besieged by their friends wanting to speak with the Americans.  No wine here.  Cocktails and many of them.  I nursed one vodka as I watched our clients put down shot after shot of god-knows-what along with a variety of cocktails.  They seem very excited to be working with us.  Hope that’s not the booze talking.

We arrive back at the hotel around 2am and really feeling the jet lag!  Our clients wanted to meet at 10am the next morning but as I crawled into bed I received a text that said “how about after 11am?”.  Yippee.

Regardless – the “after 11am” meetings were still too early.  At least our clients looked worse than us.  We struggled through the remaining meetings and were thankful to get back to the hotel for a small disco nap.  Seda had suggested we check out an area called Istiklal.  It’s a very long pedestrian zone with shops and restaurants that run for over a mile.  In addition, tons of small alleyways and streets wind off the main drag.   Fish and vegetable markets are everywhere.  Although exhausted, we loved everything about it and walked endlessly looking for the one place Seda recommended amongst the hundreds that were in the area.  It took about 12 people to direct us through the winding streets but magically we found it.

It was another fabulous evening as we sat outside under an awning at Flamm while it poured rain.  Our energy returned as the wine flowed and we tried each other’s dishes.  We are excited about the project and hope it will continue to be fun.

The others left today and after a nice wander through the Spice Market I crawled

Spices at The Egyptian Spice Market

in bed for a nap.  As you can tell from the opening of this note, I have not gone far.  Room Service and re-runs from American series are on order for tonight.  I am on my own for the next 10 days and look forward to doing some more exploring.

I’ll keep you all posted.

I think I am coming home tomorrow (May 31st).  At least that’s the plan.  But, in France, plans change at a moment’s notice - and that could happen today.

When last I left all of you I was coming off of my red carpet high and ready for some R&R in the mountains.  This has been a “non-stop” tour and some down-time sounded really good.

Ed and I took off in different cars as he’s a “2-pack a day” guy and I could not do that for 4 hours!  My lungs in France always take a beating and this trip was no different.  Besides, I like to sing along to my bad CD collection and the only thing worse than my CD’s is my singing.  We were both happy to have some quiet time not having to talk to another person – or so I thought.  As I followed Ed in his car for 4 hours I noticed one of his two cell phones constantly at his ear.  Me and Van Morrison had a sing along.

We left Cannes a tad later than we wanted (no shock there).  It was an absolute must for me to stop by my favorite shoe shop in Cannes – Robert Clergerie.  I have been to Cannes about a dozen times for various conferences and I have a ritual to stop by and see his incredibly unique designs.  You can get his shoes in the States now but he saves some designs for Europe only.  I had my “Carrie” moment as soon as I walked in the shop.  There on the main pedestal was his latest “creation”.

I will not do it justice but suffice to say it is a true work of architecture.  How can I be elevated 4 inches off the ground and still be comfortable?  Three small strips of black patent leather connected to a base of plastic in the shape of a squared slope.  And all for only a few hundred dollars!  “Fascinating stuff”, I say.  I was selling my house after all.  Right?  A small treat to make the pain a little less?  It was easy to rationalize.  I’m not sure I can say the same about the beautiful leather handbag that seemed to find it’s way on to my American Express card at the same time.  Tricky stuff.

The drive to Annecy was beautiful but tough.  Both of us had hit the wall.  Sleep was foremost in our minds.  We drove north out of Cannes and then turned towards Switzerland.  The scenery and villages could not be more different.  Within a few hours, the villages were now more German/Swiss:  Chateaux gave way to Chalets.  Flat fields of poppies gave way to tall mountain pines.  Straight country roads arched by great leafy trees gave way to hairpin turns and windy roads leading up through the clouds.

After 4 hours of straight driving we arrived at our destination.  A 15 bedroom chalet at the top of a mountain overlooking Lake Annecy.  Friends of Ed’s own this amazing home.  Like most chalets, it’s a large square in an off white color – this one has four floors – with dark brown wood porches and balconies.  Overflowing flower boxes with red geraniums adorned every window.  Large brown shutters trimmed the house.  It was just me and Ed and a big, big house with unbelievable views down to the valley below.

The chalet was built in the 40’s or 50’s and was originally a school.  For the life of us we could not figure out how they brought all the materials up the mountain to build such a huge place.  As the house sits on a mountain, the “ground floor” is a large 4 car garage and care takers apartment.  The entrance is up three stone steps and through a large sun porch where you can sit in over sized chairs and read books, or have dinner for 10.  The foyer is huge with a grand staircase on the right and small sitting area and fireplace on the left. There is a large living room, office, dining room, kitchen – all with beautiful wood floors, wood walls and wood beams.

The family bedrooms are on the third floor and the guest bedrooms on the fourth.  Ed was at one end of the hall and I at the other.  Large doors in my bedroom opened to a balcony and a sweeping view of the valley and lake below.  Across the main parking area, on the edge of the mountain, the owners have built a beautiful pool with Jacuzzi as well as a pool house complete with a full kitchen, pizza oven and a terrace.  The crowning piece of this area is the terrace on the edge of the slope with a dining table that can hold 16 for a dinner in the stars.

Bottom line.  Nice digs.

Although tired, we were also hungry.  We meandered to the bottom of the driveway (1/2 mile) where there were three restaurants to choose from.  We were so tired, anything would do.  After a late dinner of fresh vegetables, veal with homemade lingonberry sauce and a raspberry fruit tart (that tasted like the berries were picked that morning) we crashed hard under down comforters and fresh mountain air.

The next few days were simple and lazy.  We’ve not had luck with weather anywhere in France and our time in the mountains would be no different.  Foggy, rainy, cold.  I had packed two huge suitcases with bathing suits, summer sundresses, shorts and short sleeved t-shirts.  I looked a little odd in my strappy sandals while everyone else wore boots and fleeces.  Oh, well.  I would just tell everyone I was Canadian.

Annecy is lovely and the surrounding villages are too.  Skiing is their thing in winter and the season had just wrapped a few weeks earlier.  The summer was all about biking and hiking and that season had just begun.  It was a tad quiet with a lot of shops closed for a few weeks holiday before the madness of the new season revved up.  We drove to antique shops and flea markets, visited a man in a tiny village who makes beautiful pottery.  We had lunch wherever we found ourselves and had a couple nights in with soup, salad, CNN and an old movie.  We slept.

On Thursday the fog began to lift.  I had talked Ed into some physical activity and we embarked on a few hours of hiking to another peak across the way.  Where we hiked there are these crazy people who jump off the mountain with a small parachute strapped to their back and sail for hours down to the valley below.  There were hundreds.  From all over the various peaks you could see brightly colored chutes opening in a burst of wind and then quietly drift down.  The sun came out and filtered through the tall trees lining our hike.  It felt good to get my heart racing over something other than a restaurant or bottle of wine.

We left Saturday morning to drive back to our neck of the woods.  It had been great to see another part of France and the mountains are stunning but I found my heart warming to the sight of the South as we neared Provence.  The Mediterranean part of France with its warm colors, wide open spaces, never ending rows of vines and dedication to a leisurely life speaks more to me than the drama of the mountains.

This was it.  My last few days.  I had hoped some friends or family would be with me this last week but in the end, I was glad to be here by myself.  Yes, there was a lot of work to be done – but, seven years ago I had arrived by myself for this adventure and for 6 weeks cleared away what seemed like century old spider webs, Hoovered up thousands of spiders, ripped out shelves and benches and cabinets, scrubbed ceilings, walls and floors, painted floors, walls and ceilings, lived without water for days, sewn curtains (Girl Scout badge came in handy!), figured out directions to Ikea (this was not a small feat), debated with French electricians and plumbers and masons – and built a home.

It would only take a few days to close it all up.

Saturday, Sunday and Monday were spent finding boxes, hitting a few last markets and restaurants with friends and shipping my wine.  My new shoes were one extravagance from the sale, the other is shipping the wine I had accumulated.  In the end, 60 bottles were too much for us all to drink.  So, a few cases are winging their way to LA where I am sure they will quickly meet their end.

Making sure the paperwork was in order and that I truly understood all the information was my main concern.  I came into this experience a tad naïve and I was not going out the same way!   Since I made the decision to sell the house I have been holding my breath.  Would this really go through?  Would there be some last minute French snafu and it would all go “poof” in an instant?  Would there be a last minute revelation of additional taxes that would be owed and my profit cut to nothing?  (OK – my accountant has already explained that technically there is no profit – more went out than came in).  Would the buyer change his mind and being French know of a loop-hole that I do not?  Tuesday was spent having meetings to provide me with assurance – I’m sure the banker, the notaire and the real estate agent thought the meetings were a waste of time – but they made me feel better and I thank them for their indulgence.

Tuesday evening I packed my personal trinkets that I had accumulated.  There were not a lot of things as it was a rental house and items were purchased with that in mind.  A small serving tray, a wine cooler, a pitcher and the pig that welcomed everyone – those were my mementos.  I knew I would cry.  I just didn’t know when.  As I started to dismantle things around the house and make piles for the various people who had purchased my household items, it all hit me.  Selling the house was absolutely the right thing to do.  It had become too much.  The euro was climbing against the dollar.  The bills were harder to pay.  The house no longer made sense.

But, this was never about “sense” in the first place!  This was always a “moment of madness” that became seven years of new friends, new experiences, new lessons and new wonders.  The memories, adventures and experiences outweigh any profit.  (OK, clearly, my accountant has a different version of this story).

The tears did not last long.  I indulged them for a few moments and then played Scarlet – tomorrow is another day – and I have always loved Italy!!!

Wednesday was a long and yet quick day.  The “movers” turned out to be my neighbors two houses up.  They came with their truck to take everything to Simon’s house.  A Brit who had rented homes in the area for 17 tears finally gave in and bought one.  Almost everything in my house was going to his.  I hope to visit it all in the future.  Various odds and ends went to various friends from St. Remy so all day long friendly faces came by and took things away.

By 7pm the house echoed empty.  I went from room to room sweeping up and tidying things so the new owner did not have to walk into what I did years earlier.  Vincent has his work cut out for him.  The house needs some new love.  I was still aching to be the one to give it.  The kitchen doors need painting, the terrace needs new flowers, the upstairs bedroom some new curtains – well, OK, the house also needs a new roof and that 30,000 euro problem is now the new owners.  Bon Chance!!!

Ed, Cornelius, Willy and I had a beer in town and then I moved over to Ed’s house.  My car is packed to the top and I wonder what Air France is going to charge me to get on the plane.  Some things will remain at Ed’s house.  I have given him my market bag for safe keeping.  Every local has one.  They are personal.  Mine is a soft yellow canvas with worn leather handles.  It is a large rectangle shape with a leather bottom.  For others, it is a loud striped number, or a woven straw basket.  No local goes to the market without theirs.  Ed has promised to hold mine until I come to visit again.

I treated Ed, Willy and Cornelius to another culinary and wine feast last night.  We had hoped to go to Arles and see my new friends at La Chassagnette but with the pouring rain, lightning and thunder we decided to stay more local and drove over the mini-mountain to Les Baux and one of our favorite restaurants La Cabro d’Or. As always, the wine and champagne beat the food bill by almost 3 to 1.  The three of them had helped me so much over the years and even more the last few days – it was a pleasure to say thank you.  We indulged and laughed about the last few years.  As always, we were the last to leave.

As a note: I love that the high-end restaurants in France provide menus without prices to the women at the table.  Chauvinism is not dead here!  I love the surprise at the end though when they find out I am paying!  I an now referred to as “La Baroness”.  I think I still prefer “La Princess”.  There is something moldy about the other title!!!

Today is my last day here (I think).  The day will be spent in the village picking up boxes of chocolate, seeing if I can buy another suitcase(!), receiving my check (yeah) and sharing a last night in town saying “a bientot” to my friends.  It will not be good-bye.  Just, “see you later”.

Once again, thank you all for sharing another travel/life adventure.  Thank you to those who have ventured over to be a part of the story.

Stay tuned.  I am already planning more…